After a couple of days at Katherine Gorge, paying outrageous camp fees for very ordinary facilities, we are back in the bush a km or so off the road into Kakadu, at a spot called Harriet Creek. As usual, there are other campers here, with their infernal generators drowning out the birds and the whisper of the soft bush breeze is just enough to get us comfortable in +30 C temperatures. Most of the other ‘wagons’ in this camp are circled with their doors opening into the centre. We have faced the other way with our door to the bush, so at least we get some sense of “wild” camping!
Much to our disappointment, the gorge was closed to canoes because of the danger of crocodiles. There was a late wet season this year so the water levels are still high enough to harbour salt water crocs. So with the canoe strapped tightly to the roof where it has been for some weeks now, we jumped on a river cruise with all the other tourists. The gorge was spectacular, with towering cliffs sheer to the water line. In the morning, we had walked to the top of the escarpment and looked down on the gorge. From that far away, it looked splendid in its isolation. Up close from the cruise boat, it was crawling with people. Hundreds of them! Not a lot of serenity here! There were, however, a few fresh water crocodiles sunning themselves on the water’s edge. They are supposed to be harmless, but at more than two metres in length, the ones we saw could give you a nasty mauling!
Katherine itself is a large town by Territory standards, more than 10,000 people. When we passed through town this morning, it must have been nudging 15,000 with all the caravans, campers and tour buses. So even with the buzz of the generators, our camp for tonight gives us a greater sense of the “Outback“ than we have experienced the last few days.
24 June - Kakadu National Park
Our poor little van had a serious ‘shake-down’ cruise today on the way into Gunlom Falls at the south end of the national park. Forty kilometres of bone-shaking corrugations in and another forty out really sorted out any loose screws. Except for the microwave that almost wriggled out of its slot and some wires that disconnected, all was ok in the end. Once the coating of bull dust was removed from every surface, we were back to normal.
Despite the horror road, the trip was well worthwhile. After what was described in the guide books as a ‘strenuous climb’, we made it to the beautiful upper pools of the falls. The falls themselves are nothing too spectacular, but the view from the cool, crystal clear pools was breathtaking.
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